French Polynesia: First-Steps Planning

Expectations: Easy, breezy planning. Reality: Information overload!

I thought booking a trip to French Polynesia would be simple: pick some islands, grab an overwater bungalow, and call it a day. But then I fell down the rabbit hole of how many islands there actually are (100+), ferry vs. flight debates, to use a travel agency or not, and whether I’d be eaten alive by mosquitos if I picked the wrong spot.

So if I were to start all over again... here are the steps I would take. Hopefully it can give you at least some insight into the process!

Step 1: When to go

French Polynesia is stunning year-round, but the weather shifts.

• Dry season or peak season (May - October): Less rain, more crowds, higher prices.

• Absolute peak season (July & August): Peak crowds, great weather.

• Rainier season (November - March): Warmer, wetter, fewer tourists, better deals.

  
  

We decided on November. It’s technically rainy season, but it worked for our schedule, and from everything I’ve read, it’s still beautiful in between the showers, and in the mid-70's to low 80's. We're used to humid showers in Mexico, so we're game.

Step 2: How long to go

This really shapes your itinerary. Every extra island means another ferry or flight, so you want to be sure the time you have on each island is worth it. Here's a general suggestion based on my research so far:

• 1 week: Stick to 2 islands max.

• 10 – 12 days: You can fit 3 islands comfortably.

• 2+ weeks: You have more time to get adventurous, even if that just means day trips from a main island to a smaller, more remote island. Consider the Marquesas (more on that below).

  
  

We’ll be there 10 nights, which is why we landed on the classic “three island loop" of Tahiti > Moorea > Bora Bora > Tahiti. Which brings me to the next step:

Step 3: Pick your islands

Please remember, this is based on research. I haven't gone yet! And you'd think I'm crazy by the amount of research I did before simply choosing the most basic 3-island loop you could imagine. But I will explain my reasoning!

Tahiti

Every international flight lands here, so you’ll pass through no matter what. Most people don’t stay long, it’s more of a gateway. The black sand beaches have been on my bucket list, so I was surprised to hear most people say this island is "skippable." Regardless, you're gonna be there, might as well check it out!

We are starting and ending our trip at the Tahiti Airport Motel — saving some money and staying close to the airport. This area is more industrial, and the closest black sand beach is about a 30-40 minute drive by car. But we have a full day on each end of our trip, so I feel confident that we will make the journey at some point. Here are some things you might consider if you have extra time in Tahiti.

What to do:

• Wander Papeete Market for fresh fruit, local crafts, and pareos (bright wrap skirts).

• Swim under waterfalls like Faarumai or Vaipahi Gardens.

• Hit the roulottes (food trucks) at Place Vaiete for cheap and tasty dinners.

• Drive the circle island road to see black sand beaches and lava cliffs (if you plan to rent a car).

The vibe: Busy compared to the other islands, but it has real Polynesian culture (dance shows, tattoo shops, street food). Apparently this isn't the dreamy lagoon postcard I imagined, but so far I think it's worth experiencing. I'll update in late November.

Moorea

Moorea is just 30 minutes by ferry from Tahiti — or a quick hop by plane (which is what we're doing) — and suddenly you’re in a tropical fantasy. Moorea is all jagged green mountains dropping into turquoise lagoons. It’s easy to get around (the island’s ring road is only about 37 miles), and it’s the most popular “first stop” after Tahiti. The travel agency we were originally working with said most of their packages start in Moorea. Here are some popular activities to consider.

What to do:

• Snorkel with sharks and rays in Lagoonarium or on a boat tour.

• Hike Three Coconuts Pass for jaw-dropping views of Cook’s Bay and Opunohu Bay.

• Rent a scooter or car and circle the island (our plan), stopping at roadside fruit stands.

• Visit pineapple plantations and taste fresh juice (Moorea is famous for its pineapples).

• Kayak to little motus (tiny islets) off the coast.

The vibe: A balance of active and chill. You can do adventurous hikes in the morning, and be back at your hotel pool with a cocktail by the afternoon. My paradise.

FYI: When it comes to renting a car, I'd recommend reserving early. We waited until 2 months before our trip, and I was only able to find manual transmission cars when I searched. Luckily my fiance found an automatic on Hertz, so I recommend checking there.

Bora Bora

This is the crown jewel. Even if you think it’s “too touristy,” the moment you see Mount Otemanu rising out of that neon-blue lagoon, people say you understand why. This is where the iconic overwater bungalows are, and yes — they’re expensive.

We're opting for AirBnBs for Bora Bora — but one of our AirBnBs is right next to the Intercontinental Hotel, and people say you can just walk up to the resort and hangout there. So that's our plan! Plus, the AirBnB is right on the water. Like, feet-in-the-water front yard. What more could I want?

What to do:

• Go on a lagoon tour: snorkel with reef sharks, rays, and schools of colorful fish.

• Spend a lazy day at Matira Beach (where our AirBnB is), one of the best public beaches in all of French Polynesia, so I've head.

• Take a 4x4 safari up into the hills for WWII cannons and panoramic lagoon views.

• Splurge on a couple of nights in an overwater bungalow (even one night feels magical). Even for our honeymoon, I personally couldn't justify spending the $850-$4,000 per night on one of these, so we're team AirBnB here (~$275-$400 per night).

The vibe: Honeymoon central. It’s polished, glamorous, and pricey. But it’s also one of the most beautiful places you’ll ever see. If you stick to AirBnBs and local food, it's possible to swing on a "budget."

Huahine

Huahine is nicknamed the “Garden of Eden.” There are fewer hotels, fewer tourists, and it seems to be more laid-back. This is where you go if you want a cultural, authentic slice of French Polynesia.

What to do:

• Visit ancient marae (temple ruins).

• Tour vanilla plantations.

• Snorkel in crystal-clear lagoons without the crowds.

• Explore by bike — the island is small and charming.

The vibe: Sleepier, greener, very local. People often describe it as what Bora Bora was like 30 years ago.

The only thing that stopped me from staying on Huahine is that it's incredibly lush and green, which sounds amazing, but also makes it the perfect environment for mosquitos. I'm the type of person who 1. gets bit a lot and 2. has terrible reactions to bites. I have scars on my legs from bites I got 3 months ago, and I really don't want to deal with that on my honeymoon. Reviews online are super mixed though about mosquitos, so if bites don't completely decimate your day (like they do mine), I would totally check it out!

Rangiroa

If you’re into diving or snorkeling, these atolls look like paradise. Instead of mountains, there are long strips of sand and giant lagoons.

What to do:

• Snorkel through Tiputa Pass in Rangiroa, where dolphins and reef sharks hang out.

• Visit pearl farms.

• Fish, swim, and stargaze in total remoteness.

The vibe: Remote, wild, and perfect if you want underwater adventures. Not much nightlife or infrastructure — it’s really about the ocean here.

Don’t expect a big restaurant scene here. Most accommodations are "pensions" aka guesthouses, and they often serve home-cooked meals included with your stay — usually fresh fish, rice, fruit, and local specialties, which sounds lovely. There are a handful of small snack bars and restaurants, but choices are limited compared to Moorea or Bora Bora. It’s a “eat what’s available, and it’ll be fresh” kind of place — which sounds totally charming and authentic.

Tikehau

If Rangiroa feels remote, Tikehau is supposed to feel like another planet. It’s a small, dreamy atoll in the Tuamotus, famous for its pink-sand beaches and a lagoon so full of fish that Jacques Cousteau once called it the richest in the world. It’s quieter and more intimate than Rangiroa — fewer people, fewer hotels, and way more of that castaway-island feeling.

What to do:

• Snorkel right off the beach — the lagoon is ridiculously alive with fish.

• Lounge on the pink-sand motus (yes, the sand actually has a soft rose tint).

• Bike around the tiny villages and see everyday island life.

• Take a boat to Bird Island, where thousands of seabirds nest.

The vibe: Peaceful, isolated, and romantic. It’s the kind of place where you lose track of time and forget the outside world exists. Perfect for couples, honeymooners, or anyone who wants a few days of total serenity after busier islands.

There are no big highways or complicated transfers — just a short runway and a couple of dirt roads. Most visitors get around by bicycle (your pension or hotel will often provide them), or by boat transfers. Cars are rare, and you won’t need one. If you’re used to zipping around in taxis on Tahiti or renting a scooter in Moorea, Tikehau will feel like stepping back in time — but in a good, grounding way.

The Marquesas

This is for people who want something totally different. The Marquesas are rugged, volcanic, and far from Tahiti (over three hours by plane), so maybe best if you don't mind traveling or if you plan to stay awhile.

What to do:

• Explore the cliffs and hiking trails.

• See unique cultural sites (the Marquesas are famous for their tattoos and wood carvings).

• Experience a less touristy, wilder side of Polynesian life.

The vibe: Adventurous and cultural. It’s not your “lagoon and cocktails” island — it’s raw and beautiful in a completely different way. You'll feel more like you're staying with locals. Things here move on island time.

The most common type of accomodation here is "pensions" or guesthouses. They're run by local families, usually just with a handful of rooms or bungalows — so you'll often get breakfast and dinner included, and the meals are home-cooked with local ingredients (which sounds like a dream). It's local food, so again, expect things like breadfruit, poisson cru, bananas, goat, or fresh-caught fish. Rooms will typically have mosquito nets, fans, and sometimes A/C but it's not guaranteed.

There are also a few small hotels (like Nuku Hiva and Hiva Oa). These are more boutique style, not like the big resorts, but they're among the nicest options. There aren't over-water bungalows, but there are places with gorgeous terraces overlooking the ocean, gardens, or the cliffs.

Step 4: How to Book Your Travel

Island-hopping in French Polynesia isn’t like Europe, where you hop on a train every couple hours. Here, you’ve basically got two choices: ferries (short hops between Tahiti andMoorea or sometimes Huahine/Raiatea) or Air Tahiti flights for everything else.

If you’re visiting multiple islands, Air Tahiti sells something called an Island Pass — a bundle of flights that’s cheaper than buying each ticket separately. Think of it like a “choose your own adventure” ticket.

How the Island Pass works:

• You pick from a handful of preset passes, each covering a group of islands.

• Your pass is valid for 28 days from your first flight.

• You fly one direction (no backtracking).

• Prices vary, but passes often work out to be a few hundred dollars cheaper than buying flights one by one.

Examples of preset passes:

• Bora Bora Pass: Covers the “classic” Society Islands: Tahiti, Moorea, Bora Bora, plus Huahine, Raiatea, and Maupiti.

• Lagoon Pass: Great for divers; includes Tuamotu atolls like Rangiroa, Tikehau, Fakarava, plus Bora Bora.

• Austral Pass: For the seriously adventurous — goes down to the remote Austral Islands.

• Marquesas Pass: If you’re heading way out to the rugged Marquesas.
  

Why it’s useful:

• The Island Pass lets you combine “bucket list” spots (like Bora Bora) with more off-the-beaten-path islands without blowing your budget.

• It's especially good if you want to tack on Rangiroa or Tikehau, since flights to the Tuamotus can get seriously pricey on their own.

• Makes planning simpler: you know your route and cost upfront instead of piecing together one-way tickets.

Our choice: Honestly, working with the travel companies ended up being confusing for us. We ended up waiting a long time to hear back from them each time, which stalled our planning a bit. We tried to choose our tickets and times, but one always ended up being sold out (we could find the flight from Tahiti to Moorea, but not from Moorea to another island), and we had to start from scratch to check every time. We found the UI to be a bit confusing and hard to navigate, but this could absolutely just be user error.

We ended up sticking with the classic loop (Tahiti > Moorea > Bora Bora > Tahiti) and booked our own individual flights, so we didn’t need a pass. But I would have loved to add Rangiroa or Tikehau.

Step 5: Where to Stay

We're working with a budget, so while I'd like to spend 10 days in an overwater bungalow on a resort, it simply wasn't in the cards. Luckily, in French Polynesia, you have tons of options — even affordable options on the luxury island of Bora Bora.

Here are some of the options you have:

• Pensions (guesthouses): Budget-friendly ($100–$200/night), meals often included, a more local experience. Great in Huahine, Rangiroa, Marquesas.
  

• AirBnBs / Rentals: Increasingly popular in Bora Bora and Moorea; more space and flexibility, often on the water without the resort markup.
  

• Mid-range hotels: Small boutique hotels ($250–$500/night). Nice balance between comfort and cost.
  

• Luxury resorts: The overwater bungalows everyone dreams of ($900–$4,000/night). Iconic in Bora Bora, also found in Moorea and Tahiti.

I'll do a separate article about where we ended up choosing specifically after our trip, but the gist of it is:

Tahiti — Tahiti Airport Motel, affordable since we're not spending too much time here.

Moorea — 2 nights at the Hilton Moorea Resort and Spa. This is our splurge night, it's going to run us about $700 per night for one of their mid-range rooms with a private pool. Definitely our most expensive accomodation.

Moorea — 2 nights in a reasonably-priced AirBnB right on the water.

Bora Bora — 4 nights in 2 separate AirBnBs. They're down the street from one another, but have completely different vibes, and we wanted to experience both. Both are on Matira beach, which is supposed to be one of the nicest beaches in all of French Polynesia. I'm so excited to be beachfront right there.

Tahiti — Then back to the Tahiti Airport Motel for one night before we catch our flight the next day.

Final Thoughts

Whether you're looking to splurge the amount of a modest downpayment on a house, or you're on a "budget" like we are (a budget in French Polynesia is a splurge anywhere else)... there is something for you in these 100+ islands.

I'll be updating as we continue to plan with anything I find. Have anything to add? More advice? Maybe you've visited one of the islands I've talked about and have some more insight? Share with us in the comments!

Talk soon xx and happy planning!